The largest city in Cambodia and political centre of the country, Phnom Penh is a must if one is to truly understand this country, their culture and their tumultuous history. As a hub for both air and bus travel in and out of the country it is a logical stop along your Cambodia/South East Asia itinerary.
Best time to visit
Usually most people would say the best time to visit would be between November and May when the city experiences lower amounts of rainfall and has their dry season. Check out more times of the year to visit Cambodia in this post HERE
Getting here
If you are arriving on a flight you will arrive at Phnom Penh International airport, which is about 10km from the city centre. You could jump in a taxi or tuk tuk from the Arrivals exit or could book a private car transfer which is actually pretty cheap. I booked one through Klook as I was arriving at Midnight and just wanted a safe and easy journey to my hotel.
Alternatively, if you arriving via a land border on a bus from Laos or Thailand. Buses from Bangkok are roughly a 13-16 hour journey to Phnom Penh and from Pakse in Laos it would be approximately 15 hours. Bus tickets range from $35 to $80 AUD and can be easily booked on 12GoAsia. The 12GoAsia app is your go to for booking transport around Asia.
Visas
Cambodia does require a visa for most tourists and offers these on arrival, a process I found to be pretty quick and easy.
TIP: Have the USD cash on you for your VOA as the ATMs in the airport before you cross the border can be pretty dodgy.
Getting around
Distance was most of what you will want to do and see in Phnom Penh is walkable, however their idea of ‘footpaths’ that are seperate from the street leave a lot to be desired. Grab or Pass are both apps that allow you to book transport like a Tuk Tuk and operate as Cambodia’s version of Uber. However, I recommend Grab as the better choice because it gives the option to pay in cash on the spot for each trip or link up your bank card to the app. Grab also doesn’t require a Cambodian mobile phone number whereas Pass does require one, which can be a bit frustrating. I did choose to get a Cambodian sim card while there for the purpose of using data (which I think is essential) but didn’t want my phone and whats app etc to have be changed over to a new number I was only going to have for a few weeks.
Where to stay
$ Mad Monkey Hostel
$$ HM Grand Central Hotel
$$$ Hyatt Regency
What to see and do
S21 Prison and Killing Fields
This was an experience that I think is so important to have if you are going to fully experience Cambodia. Many people are not aware that in Cambodia there was a genocide in the 1970’s where millions of people were killed in a ruthless regime under the Khmer Rouge and dictator Pol Pot. It is a sad and incredibly sobering day, but one that I think is necessary to truly understand the past that led to today’s Cambodia. You can take a Tuk Tuk to both sites independently or jump on a group tour that you have booked online or through your accommodation. Going Self Guided is cheaper but I decided to go with a group from the Mad Monkey Hostel to have other people to chat to on the way and liked the idea of visiting some tough sites with a few hostel mates around me. Both the Prison and the Killing Fields have an audio guide so you can move through at your own pace. I would also suggest that you are very careful and sensitive in the way you take photographs at each site. I didn’t even take any photos at the Killing Fields (except the entry gate which you can see below) as I just felt that it would be too disrespectful.
Royal Palace
When planning your visit be sure to work around the segmented visiting hours available. The palace is only open between 9 am and Midday in the morning or 2pm and 5pm in the afternoon.
I also highly recommend if you can afford the extra $10 USD in your budget to get a private tour guide to take you through the palace complex so you know what you are looking at. There are several private guides around the ticket area and chances are they will approach you asking if you wish to engage their services rather than having to wander around looking for one.
Wat Phnom (Temple)
Wat Phnom is a Buddhist temple located on top of hill within the city that was originally built in the middle ages. It is usually a quick stop by on your day/itinerary. Entry costs 1 USD and it is open from 7am til 6pm.
National Museum
This is usually on most lists of things to do in Phnom Penh, however I feel that it is entirely overrated and overpriced by local standards. I would advise against it to save both time and money. As someone who loves museums I was incredibly underwhelmed.
What to bring/wear
Phnom Penh is hot and humid year round, however there are two distinct seasons (Wet and Dry). November to May is when you would experience the drier conditions.
As you are going to be doing a lot of walking, a sturdy pair of sneakers are a must. My Nike Airforce’s were my go to as they had enough cushioning and support for long days of 15,000 + steps and still trendy enough to pair with most outfits.
I recommend loose clothing as much as you can. It is never great when everything is sticking to you and you will need something that covers your shoulders and comes down to knee length to enter certain sites (such as the Royal Palace). Having an outfit for this purpose will also be helpful as you travel throughout Cambodia as many significant and religious sites require this type of modest dress code.
Food
Bassac Street
This is definitely the best place in the city to enjoy your pick of a large range of bars and restaurants. There are different cuisines options and I can vouch for the Thai at Thai Kitchen (open from 11am til Midnight) and even gave the Indian Place a go. Its a super vibey area at night and you are likely to find the best bars on the side streets.
Backyard Cafe
If you have any sort of dietary requirements then I recommend Backyard Cafe. They have a three locations around the city and have a range of healthy meals including nourish bowls, smoothies, salads and a good selection of your typical western brunch options. They even offer some muffins and sweet treats that are a Godsend for those who may be Gluten/Dairy Free or Vegan.
I loved it so much I went three times in the three days I was in Phnom Penh sampling things for a mixture of Breakfast and Lunch and even taking the leftovers with me for dinner.
Currency/Money
Cambodia functions using a blend of two different currencies: US Dollars (USD) and Cambodian Riel (KHR). Both are valid for any purchase but you will typically find Riel used for smaller purchases. If you withdraw from an ATM some offer both currencies and some offer only KHR.
Other useful tips
Cash is king
You are better off keeping a decent stash for your time here as a lot of restaurants and stores don’t take card or charge solid fees for the use of this.
Sim Cards
Get a sim card on arrival as you exit the airport. These are super cheap and very convenient when it comes to accessing data to use google maps and other relevant travel apps to make a seamless travelling experience. Most companies offer very similar deals and if you wanted to read more about the different options I recommend checking out this post by Along Dusty Roads.
I hope you enjoy your trip to Phnom Penh!
Happy Travels,
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