The Okavango Delta is an extensive inland river system located in the North of Botswana. It is famous for its widespread grassy plains that flood seasonally, creating a lush habitat for a range of species. Most well known is the Moremi Game reserve in the east and central areas, where your main mode of transport is a dugout canoe allowing you to drift by elephants , crocodiles and hippos…whilst on dry land you will come across all manner of wildlife including lions, rhinos, zebras, leopards and giraffes.
Remote and calming the Okavango Delta is unlike any experience I have had on my travels. After being ‘on- the- go’ for two weeks straight travelling overland through South Africa and Namibia (traversing some of the most insane raw beauty I have ever seen (deserts are my happy place, yes I know…you can call me crazy!) I was ready to take it slow for a few days. I traded days hiking mountains, climbing sand dunes, jumping out of planes and long game drives speaking in hushed tones so as not to disturb the wild animals we came across, for days spent walking through grasslands, sitting by the camp fire and trying my hand at paddling the Mokoros (dug out canoes) and discovered this was not a talent I could readily and easily add to my resume. You could say that I failed miserably, but at least I had a good time doing it. And I would like to take a moment to point out they they are incredibly hard to steer even with the long sticks! That was until one of the guys from my safari tour group decided he would swim over and ‘help’ by giving me and my mokoro a huge push. In reality, it hindered more than it helped and I came crashing down inside the canoe with an almighty thud and ended up with a bruise on my leg for over a week. Well A for effort mate, at least the good intention was there, but you did give me a war wound and a story to tell! ha!
At night, after our cooks had prepared a hot meal for us we spent hours talking by firelight and dancing in the dirt with the locals. It was in this moment I realised that although I think I can dance #prettyfly that this white girl and her vivacious club moves were no match for a more tribal style of movement and expression. I find it so special that even though we may not share the same language or cultural norms these can be transcended and you can connect with people given that we all have a collective ‘human experience’. That is the power of travelling right there. Making memories and engaging in moments despite a language or cultural barrier. I really think that these things are only barriers if we allow them to be.
As the embers started to slowly burn out, it signalled a time for bed, curled up in our two man tents with our travelling buddies, discussing the days activities from taking a stroll otherwise known as a ‘safari on foot’ to cooling off with a swim and splashing around in the river. NOTE: only in areas our guides told us were safe for swimming!
I think what I loved more than anything was how for those brief moments and days, I felt like time had almost stopped. That there was no boring reality calling me. Nothing to get up and rush for. No responsibilities on my shoulders and I could just connect and ground myself…to the earth, to the people, to the feeling of stillness. It was so isolating yet strangely not lonely. It was so tucked away and yet so liberating. You came to appreciate minimalism (rotating a few shirts with a few different pairs of shorts with no need for a mirror let alone any makeup) and after the trip I really began to miss #tentlife. Life really was simpler. More pure. No electricity (and yes no running water or showers can be interesting) but you can forgo these conveniences for a couple of days. Life was calm and yet exciting, relaxing, yet filled with adventures…with sunrises and sunsets one couldn’t help but marvel at as they shone and sparkled on the water mixing pink, purple and blue hues like a watercolour painting.
I am absolutely desperate to go back and on my next trip I plan to treat myself to a luxury safari lodge experience (after saving for a while as these kinds of experiences don’t come cheap). I think this would be a nice contrast to the remote campsite experience I had. I recommend, however, that you don’t shy away from these…as these can be some of the most incredible moments you can have while on the road. Yes luxury accommodation is nice, but don’t be that person that only stays in luxury abodes and never gets the chance to see a place the way it is best seen and experienced.
So, Let’s Talk Logistics:
Best time to go
Given that the Okavango Delta is an area of permanent wetlands, this makes it a year round destination, however there are certain times that could be better depending on what you are after.
November to April: Rainy summer season. This is the best time for bird watching. I wouldn’t use this to turn you off though. I was there late December/early January and I found it to be very warm and we didn’t really get rained on.
June to August: High water season (Winter and relatively dry, less mosquitos). This is the best time for boating and canoe safaris. Lots of animals migrate at this time and which makes game viewing all the more fabulous.
September to October: Hot and dry. Very good months to visit as animals are crowding around water sources and the Moremi Game reserve is particularly good for safaris at this time of year.
How to get here
If you want the easy and hassle free option you could take an overland safari tour through Botswana that includes time spent in the Okavango Delta. I took A 6 week (42 day) trip with Africa Travel Co that started in South Africa and ended in Kenya (The Southern Explorer tour, which I believe has been altered slightly and is now 43 days). This is also a very budget friendly way to experience the entire region and get connected with local guides. There are also other shorter tours leaving from Maun that are specific to the Okavango Delta and would do the same (transport you there and back).
However, if you want to specifically curate your itinerary and have a bit more to spend you have a few options for making your way out to the Okavango Delta:
- Flying in: The nearest international airport is Maun (tourist capital of Botswana) and then picking up a bush flight to your destination within the Okavango Delta region.
- Transfer from your accommodation: If you are staying at a private lodge or luxury accommodation they usually include transfers from the airstrip (from the charter flight you have come in on).
- Self Driving: Roads are pretty limited as you could imagine but if you are coming from Maun and going to one of the self guided accommodation places suggested below you would need to head north out of town on the A3 (Disaneng Road) for over an hour (63 kilometres) before taking a left at Mokhokhelo and following this road for the remainder of the journey. You are essentially heading to the North Gate at Moremi National Park. The overall journey will take roughly 2.5 hours.
What to see and do
- Ride in a Mokoro (dugout canoe)
- Moremi National Park
- Chobe National Park
- Bush walk (Walking safari)
- Game drive
- Bird Watching
Where to stay
Some of the popular, amazing and well known lodges include:
- Sable Alley
- Mapula Lodge
- Camp Moremi
- And Beyond Xaranna Okavango
- Sanctuary Baines Camp
- Xugana Island Lodge
- Great Plains Conservation Selinda Camp
Budget
Self guided: You could drive into Moremi and book yourself into a campsite to explore on you own, and at you own pace. This seems to be a bit more complex, but definitely can be done. You would need to organise your game drives and Mokoro excursions with the camp but a lot of the self booked accommodation seems to be REALLY expensive. The two that I came across that wouldn’t entirely break the bank are:
- Khwai Campsite ($150 USD per night twin share, all year around. Rates include campsite and access to toiler/shower facilities. Note: there are no power points here. It is recommended to book at least one year in advance for peak season (May to October) as the number of people and vehicles allowed in is very limited.
- Khwai Guest House ($150-250 USD per night for one person, $280-400 USD per night twin share…depending on the season/time of year. Rates include dinner, bed and breakfast.
Tour group: This greatly varies depending on the company and the type of comfort level when it comes to accommodation and sleeping arrangements. I have come across tour companies that would charge $4000 USD for a 10-14 day tour. I paid less than that for my 42 day tour but keep in mind mine was an overland tour through 8 different countries and our time in the Okavango Delta was brief (only 2-3 days).
Luxury lodge: You are roughly looking at $600- 3000 USD per night but this is usually all inclusive (food, game drives etc). It does depend on the size and and amenities. Obviously a larger suite will set you back a lot more.
I really do think this is one of the best spots in Southern Africa for a safari experience and if you choose the luxury lodge option…definitely a bit of romance as well 🙂
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